Sunday, April 18, 2010

So, Not so Frugal...

When a friend invited me to Craigie-On-Main for 'research,' I simply couldn't resist. Let me warn you in advance that this is not a frugal dinner. Dinner at Craigie is a sensual excess, an inspiration to the amateur chef, and a reminder that food has the power to change your life. 

Craigie specializes in fresh, organic, local food. That goes for everything from their meat to their cocktails. Their menu changes daily, dependent on the market. The list of their local farm suppliers is on the back of their menu, but you don't need to see that because you can taste it. 

Stepping into Craigie from the cold, rainy evening was like stepping into another world. With a  totally open kitchen facing the doorway, the impression was of well-controlled chaos as chefs performed their intricate dance in the tight passages between lowboys and hot fry pans. The environment was that of a bistro, with warm decorative touches amidst elegant but homey surrounds.  Tables were farther apart than at Ten Tables, giving everyone a little bit more room to have intimate conversation. 

We had, of course, the six course tasting menu. The ten course was a bit too steep, and the six is very satisfying in terms of portion size. To start (and yes, it was different than the sample menu) we had three amuse-bouche: first squid noodles with crispy roasted garlic, then house cured salmon, then fried Maine clam with squid ink. All of these were delicious, but my favorite was by far the house cured salmon, which was worth dying for. 

Second course was sashimi-grade tuna with a chili vinegar, ginger harissa, and avocado. Third was a striped bass, cooked to perfection, on a ramp sauce. Fourth was chicken leg comfit and boudin noir with a micro-green salad and poached egg. By the fifth course, I was unclear what I was eating anymore, but I knew that it was delicious. I remember eating a succulent rib and crispy pork belly and zucchini pasta in a pork ragout. 

Finally, and this needs a separate mention, I cannot begin to describe the joy and comfort of bone marrow on toast. I have had few culinary experiences that were more hedonistic, rich, and other-worldly. Served right out of the bone it came from, the marrow is silky smooth and creamy, buttery and earthy. In other words, exactly what one needs on a rainy evening. 

The meal ended with homemade sorbet as a palette cleanser, followed directly by a kind of napoleon with chocolate and a banana foam. 

Now, Craigie also has some of the better cocktails I've ever had, and they would give Gargoyles a run for their money.  I can only remember that I had the Northern Lights and St. Bruno, and both were fresh, refreshing, and properly made. That brings up the service actually, because my first drink was late arriving and therefore was immediately taken off of the bill. The service was crisp but informal, and all of the staff were attentive. We were left to finish our meal in peace (one of my pet peeves is when wait staff try to take my plate before I'm done with it or otherwise pester me). 

Well, I'm smitten with this place, but I won't be able to afford it again for another year. Here's to eating! 

I bid you peace. 

1 comment:

  1. Never had bone marrow, but it sounds amazing from what you described!

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